OWNER’S MANUAL
Owner’s Manual PDF
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Owner’s Manual
EZ Boilers LLC
EZ-Classic and EZ-Pro
(Detailed information is included on our website’s pages)
Design tested to conform to UL 2523-2009 Solid fuel fired hydronic heating appliances, water heaters, and boilers, and CAN/CSA B366.1-2011 Solid fuel fired central heating appliances standards.
EZ Boilers LLC
1445 170th Ave.
Hersey, Michigan 49639
Call or text: (231) 823-2499
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing our stove. Developed and manufactured in Hersey Michigan, the EZ Boilers LLC “Simple and Strong” stove has been designed to supply heat and hot water for your home or business. The strongest structural design is round and the weakest is square or rectangular. This pertains to stoves as well. For longevity and strength, our stove uses a round, heavy duty design for the firebox. Rectangular designs with many overlapping welds and faceted corners can be problematic. Our water jacket is a round design as well and is 3/16” thick. Your stove also utilizes a natural draft burning technology to get all of the energy out of traditional fuel sources, and to provide you with many years of safe and cost-effective heating of your building and domestic hot water supply. With no major electronics or fans on the outside of the unit, our stove is simple and safer. The majority of the parts we use are off- the-shelf, readily available, to make service easy. To ensure that you have a clear understanding of the operating procedures of your stove, please take the time to read this manual thoroughly. If you have any questions give us a call at (231) 823-2499. We will be happy to answer any questions you have.
Thanks again,
The EZ Boilers LLC Simple and Strong Stove Team
Simple and Strong….,that’s our Stove.
SAFETY
Do not operate this equipment for anything other than its intended purpose.
Do not install in a home, basement or garage. This stove is intended to be used outdoors.
Caution….Hot Surfaces….Never leave children unattended near the stove.
Do not burn any material other than natural organics. Do not burn GARBAGE, HOUSEHOLD WASTE, STRAW, HAY or YARD WASTE. Do not use flammable liquids or materials to start or to enhance the fire. Never use any type of petroleum product, petroleum based product, charcoal starter, lighter fluid, lantern fuel, kerosene or any other flammable accelerant to start your fire.
Start your fire with paper, cardboard, and small kindling, never any type of flammable liquid. It is very important when you first fire your stove to allow the water to come up to operating temperature (160° to 180°) before you actually start heating your home or other structure. If you start drawing heat out of the water too soon, the stove will not be able to catch up, and creosote will probably clog your chimney. Keep the water pump(s) operating, but don’t turn the indoor thermostat for the outdoor stove up until that operating temperature is reached.
When opening the firebox door, pause between the first (main) latch and the safety latch. This type of latch is called a Door Anti Blowback Latch. There can be unburnt gases built up inside of the firebox during normal operation. Pausing at the safety latch will allow those gases to ignite and burn off. Failure to make this a practice could result in severe burns. Always close the stove door tightly after tending your fire.
Never leave the stove unattended if the firebox door is open or unlatched.
Do not touch any part of the front of your stove that is uninsulated. Temperatures can reach 200 degrees in these areas. Failure to do this could result in severe burns.
To avoid electrical shock, disconnect the electricity before performing maintenance.
Always wear protective gloves and glasses. Be aware that hanging or loose clothing can catch fire.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground. All combustible materials should be disposed of by burial in the soil, or otherwise dispersed. They should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Using an outdoor stove helps eliminate the risk of a house fire, chimney fire, indoor smoke, or carbon monoxide poisoning.
The EZ Boilers LLC Simple and Strong stove has been tested to conform to the standards of UL 2523-2009 solid fuel fired hydronic heating appliances, water heaters, and boilers, and CAN/CSA B366.1-2011 Solid fuel fired central heating appliances.
SECTION 1
INSTALLATION
CAUTION – DO NOT FIRE THIS UNIT UNTIL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS HAVE BEEN READ AND FULLY UNDERSTOOD. NEVER LIGHT A FIRE IN THE STOVE DRY (WITHOUT WATER), THE STOVE WILL BURN UP.
THIS UNIT MUST BE INSTALLED BY A QUALIFIED INSTALLER.
Before installing your stove always check any and all applicable state and local regulations and consult with your insurance agent.
We recommend installing your stove a distance of at least 5 feet from any flammable structure, and at least 25 feet away from fuel storage tanks, such as liquid propane tanks. However, farther away is even better. The underground insulated PEX water lines can transport heated water for a long distance without sacrificing economy. Safety should be a top priority. Your stove should be located with consideration to your neighbor’s property. This type of stove is not designed to be located or operated in densely populated areas.
Installation tips
Stove Footprint. When you’re beginning to install your boiler, the footprint comes in handy to position the blocks under the legs or pouring a concrete pad. EZ-Pro: L = 60 inches W = 44 inches. EZ-Classic: L = 48 inches W = 44 inches
Those measurements are from the outside of the legs, which are approximately 3 inches square. Therefore, the EZ-Pro measures 57″ by 41″ on center, and the EZ-Classic measures 45″ by 41″ on center.
CAUTION: Lift and move the stove at your own risk. Do not lift your stove from the bottom with a fork truck or similar equipment. You can safely lift your stove by removing the chimney diverter clean-out, dropping a chain through the chimney into the firebox, and attaching the chain to the door frame. The stove can also be picked up using a fork truck by putting the forks through the door opening and into the firebox.
Electrical
We recommend that a licensed professional electrician makes all of the necessary electrical connections involved with the installation of the stove.
Your stove operates on a 115 volt electrical source. We recommend that you use 14/2 115 volt underground wire during your installation. To avoid electrical shock, disconnect the electricity before performing your installation.
Your stove is equipped with a 115 volt aquastat controller. The pump(s) operate on 115 volts as well.
Aquastat Controller
Before firing the stove, ensure that the aquastat is correctly programmed. While this is done at the factory, many factors can cause the programming to be lost, and the default programming may cause the stove to overheat and burn up. See section “Setting the Aquastat” for details.
Grounding Rod
A properly installed grounding system will protect people from electrical shock, help safeguard expensive electronic equipment, prevent electrolysis, limit neutral-to-ground voltage and satisfy the NEC along the way.
Use only a 4GA or larger wire with proper grounding clips. Grind paint away where the wire attaches to the stove in order to get a solid electrical connection.
GFCI Outlet or GFCI Breaker
Install a GFCI outlet or GFCI breaker on the stove. This will protect the user and the electronics, and prolong the life of the stove. Installing an ordinary electrical switch between the GFCI and the power supply coming into the stove will allow you to easily switch off the power to the stove for maintenance. Using the GFCI reset button as a switch would greatly shorten its life. The stove’s pump(s) plug into this outlet conveniently. More details on our Installation Tips page. Installation Tips
Thermostat
Install a second thermostat (110 volt line voltage thermostat) , connecting it to your existing home furnace. This will allow the heat from the outside stove to be distributed throughout your home, without your indoor furnace’s burner cycling on.
Your existing furnace thermostat should be set several degrees lower than the new stove thermostat. This will allow the existing furnace to only turn on and heat your home if the fire goes out in your outdoor stove.
IMPORTANT: Have a qualified electrician check to ensure that these changes do not cause the electric motor to overload. Any modification to the existing furnace must be made in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications and performed by a qualified, licensed person, in accordance with local building codes.
Plumbing
We recommend that you contact a licensed professional plumber to make all necessary plumbing installations between the stove and your existing heating system or your building(s). There are tips for the installation elsewhere in this manual, and on our website. The necessary fittings for the stove’s installation are available at most local hardware stores and home improvement centers. SupplyHouse, an online vendor, also has a wide selection of plumbing parts at reasonable prices. SupplyHouse
Initial Water Fill-Up
Attach a garden host to the hose fitting on the return line pipe. Shut off the return line ball valve and fill the entire system until water runs out of the vent pipe on the top of the stove. Open the return line ball valve and run the pumps for 24 hours to purge the air from the system and to check the plumbing for leaks. Check and refill the system as necessary and pour 1 unit of sodium nitrite treatment solution into the vent pipe located on the top of the stove.
If you have 2 return lines for your system, add a y-fitting to connect the 2 return lines to the return port. This will provide a smoother water flow than would a tee fitting.
However, it can be difficult to locate Y-fittings in your local hardware store. A tee-fitting will work, but should be installed in a direction which will ensure the smoothest water flow. This applies to whatever type of fitting you are working with, brass or PEX. You want at least one of the water return lines to have a straight path back to the stove tank.
Stove Water Ports
The stove pump ports are shown here. The ports are female 1 inch NPT (National Pipe Thread) and fittings are available at your local home improvement store.
SECTION 2 – GETTING TO KNOW YOUR STOVE
Stove Construction
Firebox
Our firebox is 1/4” thick. The strongest structure is round and the weakest is square or rectangular. For longevity and strength, our firebox uses this round boiler design. Round designs have fewer welds; therefore, fewer spots for possible failure.
Water jacket
Our water jacket is 3/16” thick, and is also a round design, giving it maximum strength. The water jacket surrounds the entire firebox of the stove to maximize heat transfer.
Don’t neglect routine maintenance on the boiler’s door. The gasket needs to be replaced from time to time. Inspect it at the start of every heating season. Also pay attention to the door latch. It can loosen over time, and fail to close tightly. It only takes a moment with a 3/4″ wrench to tighten it back up a little, leaving just enough play so that it will operate freely.
Sight Glass
A sight glass is a simple mechanical way to keep track of the water level in your stove. With a quick glance, you know that your stove has the correct amount of water. If you do not see water in the sight glass, water must be added to your stove. Commonly, the water level in the gauge will settle just below the halfway point.
You can obtain this item at grainger.com. Part Number 1U614
Sight Gauge
Boiler Vent
The boiler vent is a port coming off of the highest part of the water jacket of the stove, and is used to vent air from the stove when it is filled. It is also used to prevent a vacuum from forming when the stove is drained. The stove is a non-pressurized unit and is ventilated to the atmosphere through the vent. The vent is also a good place to pour the water additive (sodium nitrite) for your stove. It is not recommended to fill your stove the first time through the vent tube, because that could trap air in the pumping system.
Chimney
The chimney is 8” schedule 40 steel. A regular 8” piece of stove pipe will fit into the chimney of your stove. You could also use 8” insulated pipe.
Stoves with chimneys mounted out the side will have far more creosote than those that have chimneys going out the top. The answer is simple. Unburned gases when exiting into the chimney cool off, condense and form creosote. Out-the-side chimneys run much cooler, resulting in excessive creosote buildup. Your stove has an ‘out-the-top’ chimney running through a diverter. Our stove is designed this way to be simple, safer, and require less maintenance.
Check the caulk around the chimney and roof of your stove every year. Re-caulk as necessary. Your local home improvement store will carry a high temp RTV silicone adhesive/sealant that withstands up to 500 to 600 degrees.
Diverter
If you look at the top of the firebox, you will see a metal box. This box is called a Diverter. The diverter is mounted under the chimney. It is designed to push smoke and heat to the back of the stove so that the stove heat does not go straight out the chimney. The flapper in the diverter is there to aid in cleaning the chimney. If can be removed or pulled back to clean the chimney.
Rear Access Door
The rear access door encloses the plumbing and electrical wiring for your stove. It is held on with two knob bolts and slides out the bottom of the stove frame.
Electrical
Connecting power to the stove is fairly simple, but please get someone qualified to work on it if you are unsure or uncomfortable working with electricity. More detailed instructions here: Installation Tips
Electronics
Aquastat Controller
The aquastat controller for your stove is designed for many heating and cooling and high temperature applications. The probe temperature is displayed on a bright 3-digit display. You are able to program the set point (SP), which is the temperature the damper door will open and you are able to set the differential (R0), which is the difference between the damper open and close temperatures. Setting the aquastat is covered in ‘Setting the Aquastat’ .
Our recent models have a Honeywell aquastat and an external temperature gauge. The temperature gauge is held in place by a dab of silicone. If you are concerned that the gauge doesn’t seem to be reading the water temperature correctly as you set it, there is a small adjusting screw on the back of the gauge which you can use to fine tune it.
SECTION 3 – MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING
Before the Heating Season
CAUTION – DO NOT START A FIRE IN THIS STOVE UNTIL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS HAVE BEEN READ AND FULLY UNDERSTOOD.
Never start a fire in your stove without water, The stove will burn up.
Make sure your stove is full of water (SIGHT GLASS), run the pumps and check for leaks. Remember, the pump is lubricated with water.
Inspect the rope seal around the inside of the door before lighting the first fire and a few days after, looking for any indications of a poor seal. A poor seal will cause the fire to burn unregulated, possibly resulting in damage due to overheating, as well as poor burning economy. The door must be closed and sealed for the stove to operate properly. Make sure that the door latch itself is pulling the door closed tightly. The nut on the latch will loosen occassionally, but can be quickly retightened easily with a 3/4″ wrench. Leave it loose enough so that it still moves easily. A poorly sealing door can lead to an overheating stove very easily.
It is very important when you first fire your stove to allow the water to come up to operating temperature (160° to 180°) before you actually start heating your home or other structure. If you start drawing heat out of the water too soon, the stove will not be able to catch up, and creosote will probably clog your chimney. Keep the water pump(s) operating, but don’t turn the indoor thermostat for the outdoor stove up until that operating temperature is reached.
End of the Heating Season
Check the caulk around the chimney and roof of your stove. Re-caulk if necessary. Your local home improvement store will carry a high temp RTV silicone adhesive/sealant that withstands temperatures up to 500 to 600 degrees.
Place a bucket over the chimney when the stove is not in use, to keep rain out of the firebox.
Check the rope seal around the inside of the door. Replace if necessary
Remove the rear access door and inspect the pumps and fittings for leaks.
Clean the outside of your stove. Many times there will be creosote on the roof and ash around the door. This is a good time to take care of your stove.
Scrape the inside of the firebox and spray it down with kerosene mixed with automatic transmission fluid, PB Blaster, or something that will prevent rust and corrosion. Do not allow ashes to sit in one place for long periods. Move them around during the week, scraping right down to the metal. DON’T GET LAZY AT THE END OF THE HEATING SEASON! REMOVE THE OLD ASHES COMPLETELY! Ashes will react with the moisture in the air and turn acidic, eventually eating away at the steel.
Drain and flush the water jacket, then refill it with water and a unit of sodium nitrite treatment. Then completely fill the stove to the top of the vent pipe with water. This will eliminate the chance of the oxygen attacking the top of the firebox. Be sure to recheck the water level before using the stove again at the start of the next heating season. It may help to raise the front of the stove slightly with a jack so that any sludge in the bottom of the tank can be fully removed.
Remove the water pump(s) for cleaning when you drain the stove. If mineral deposits are allowed to build up on the pump impellers, water flow will be negatively affected, and the pump may fail by overheating.
Creosote
Creosote is a gummy, foul smelling, corrosive, and extremely combustible substance that, if no precautions are taken, will coat the insides of everything it comes in contact with. It is formed when gases given off in the burning process combine and condense on their way out of the chimney.
The firebox must be cleaned and rust protected during the off season. Scrape, brush, clean the inside of the firebox and spray it down with kerosene mixed with automatic transmission fluid, PB Blaster or something that will prevent rust and corrosion.
Corrosion Control
Add 1 unit of sodium nitrite to the water jacket each year. Corrosion Prevention
Install an anode rod. They are commonly used on water heaters to reduce rusting. Info They also work for outdoor boilers. On your Ezboilers stove, the anode rod can be connected through the drain port, which is the lowest port on the back of the stove. Simply add a tee fitting to that port, install the anode rod straight into the water jacket, and install your drain valve on the side of the tee. When you drain and flush the stove once a year, also remove the anode rod and inspect it. There is no way to predict how often it will need to be replaced, since water quality varies widely. We recommend that you use a magnesium rod, as they perform well in conjunction with our chemical water treatment. Also remember that the material that is eaten off the rod will fall to the bottom of the tank as sludge, and it needs to be removed by flushing when you drain the stove in the Spring.
Use only a magnesium anode rod! Aluminum rods will react with the water treatment chemical and break down immediately, possibly clogging the pumps.
You can purchase MAGNESIUM rods at hardware stores and large home building supplies stores, such as Home Depot. Our friends at SupplyHouse.com also sell the correct magnesium rod.
Install a 6′ grounding rod and ground the frame of the furnace. This will minimize corrosion from electrolysis.
Keep the ash and coal pulled to the front of the firebox and add fuel to the top and behind of this coal pile. Pay special attention to the left and right sides of the coal pile where they touch the firebox. Move those edges around every day so that an undisturbed corrosive ash line doesn’t form against the sides of the firebox.
Keep the firebox cleaned out and oiled in the off season.
Put a bucket or cap on the chimney in the off season to keep out rain.
Drain and flush the water jacket every year (sludge buildup in bottom of water jacket can allow corrosion even if you maintain nitrite chemicals).
Water Maintenance
Outdoor Boiler Anti-Corrosion Chemical Treatment
You MUST drain your boiler once per year and add fresh water and anti-corrosion treatment. Remember, failure to do so voids the warranty. We fully recommend the following products:
Wood Boiler Treatment, 1 quart = $40.00. Treats up to 200 gallons. Badger Insulated Pipe company.
Pumps
You should run your pumps at least once a month for 24 hours during the off season. This will cycle the pumps and circulate the water and chemicals throughout your plumbing system. Remove them and clean the impellers thoroughly when you drain the stove, then reinstall them and refill the stove with fresh water and nitrite treatment.
Sight Glass
If your sight glass becomes cloudy or hard to read, it is serviceable. Simply remove the nut fitting on the top and remove the glass tube. Clean the tube and reassemble. Make sure the rubber washer on the underside of the nut is still there and is in good condition. Do not over-tighten the nut.
SECTION 4 – OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
How To Videos
Fuel Burning
It is very important when you first fire your stove to allow the water to come up to operating temperature (160° to 180°) before you actually start heating your home or other structure. If you start drawing heat out of the water too soon, the stove will not be able to catch up, and creosote will probably clog your chimney. Keep the water pump(s) operating, but don’t turn the indoor thermostat for the outdoor stove up until that operating temperature is reached.
Learning how much fuel to burn in your stove is an experimental process, because everyone’s situation is slightly different. We recommend that the first time you use your stove, simply fill it up to the top with fuel and see how it does over a 12-hour period. Then each time that you fill the stove, add less fuel until you reach the point that the stove no longer maintains temperature for the 12 hours. Adjust your loading for the changes in outdoor temperature. During extreme cold weather you may need to fill the stove more often. The goal is to get enough heat out of the stove without wasting wood. It won’t burn as much in November as it will in February, so you need to adjust the load accordingly.
Every day, before you load fuel into your outdoor stove, you will want to pull the ash and burning coal pile to the front of your firebox. Make it into a heaping pile and then load fuel on and behind the coal pile. The fire will burn through the pile and turn it to ash. Do not pull the coals tightly against the front plate. Leave them back a few inches or more. Be sure to stir the ashes where they touch the sides of the firebox as well.
Another benefit of raking ashes forward each day is that it will make it easier when you need to empty the ashes, every 4-6 weeks, or as needed. The ashes will already be in the front, and more of the firebox will be available for heat transfer to the water jacket. This will make your outdoor stove come to temperature faster and burn less fuel. If you allow your firebox to fill half way up with ashes, you will minimize the heat transfer area and will have a tough time finding room for fuel.
Ash Disposal
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible surface, well away from all combustible materials. If the ashes are going to be buried in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be left in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Stove Operating Checklist
• Check The Water Level
• Inspect The System Plumbing
• Verify That The Pump(s) Are Running
• Verify That The Chimney Is Installed And Clear
• Inspect The Door Gasket
• Inspect The Door Tightness
• Verify The Aquastat Operation
• Review All Safety Precautions
Electrical
Supplied Electrical
Your stove comes with one electrical box and a supply wire that will power the Aquastat controls. This is a 115 volt circuit.
Programming The LED Aquastat
The aquastat controller for your stove is designed for many heating and cooling applications. The following steps will set up the basic operations of your outdoor boiler. We recommend that you keep these setting until you understand your heating desires and the proper operation of the aquastat controller.
Step-by-step Instructions
1. Press the SET and DOWN arrow buttons at the same time, then release.
2. Press and hold the SET button for 10 seconds or until the display reads 0, then release.
3. Press and release the SET button. The display will read SP.
4. Press SET again. The display will show the current set point temperature.
5. Press the UP or DOWN arrow button to adjust the set point to 180.
6. Press SET. The display will show SP.
7. Press the UP arrow once. rO will show on the display.
8. Press SET. Press the UP or DOWN arrow until 7 displays.
9. Press SET. The display will read rO.
10. Press the UP arrow once. The display will read r1.
11. Press the UP arrow once. The display will read r2.
12. Press SET.
13. Press the UP arrow until the display reads 200.
14. Press SET. The display will read r2.
15. Press the UP arrow. The display will read dO.
16. Press SET.
17. Press the UP arrow until the display reads Ht.
18. Press SET. The display will read dO.
19. Press and release the SET and DOWN arrow buttons at the same time.
Your aquastat is now programmed. During the heating season, you can quickly adjust the run temperature by pressing and releasing the SET button once. The display will read SP. Press the SET button once more to display the current set point temperature. You can then use the UP or DOWN arrow buttons to set your desired stove operating temperature. Pressing the SET and DOWN arrow buttons at the same time will exit the programming mode and the display will show the stove’s current temperature.
Replacing the aquastat
If it ever becomes necessary to replace a malfunctioning aquastat, you may want to take a picture of the connected wires in the existing one to use as a guide to wiring the new one. For EZ Boilers stoves, the wires are connected as shown in the following diagram:
Note that the #9 connection is not used for our purposes, and that the white neutral wires from the power supply and the solenoid do share the #7 connector. After the new aquastat has been installed it will have to be reprogrammed following the full “Setting the Aquastat” procedure above.
Honeywell Aquastat
Our current stove models are equipped with a Honeywell aquastat controller with simplified adjustment controls.
Simply use the main wheel on top to set your stove to the desired operating temperature. The lower inner wheel is used to set the operating differential, between 5 and 30 degrees. We recommend setting your differential between 5 and 10 degrees. For example, if you set the operating temperature of your stove at 180 degrees with a differential of 10 degrees, the combustion air damper will open at 170 degrees, and close again once the temperature reaches 180 degrees.
Solenoid care
Caution: always turn the power off to the boiler when working on the solenoid! The damper opens FORCEFULLY when the solenoid activates.
To replace the solenoid, use a screwdriver to remove the attaching clip from the turnbuckle, then remove the 2 lower attachment screws using a 5/16″ open end wrench, but simply loosen the upper 2 attachment screws and slide the solenoid down. The 2 power leads should slide fairly easily off the power terminals. It doesn’t matter which wire goes where when replacing the solenoid. Reverse the steps to install the new solenoid.
The turnbuckle is adjusted at our factory to allow the damper to open about 3/4 of an inch to allow air to enter. That really is all that’s needed for most situations. You can adjust the turnbuckle to allow more air in, but NEVER adjust that opening to more than 1.5″ MAX. More than that will place undue stress on the solenoid, and wear it out quickly. It may even prevent the damper from closing completely.
We have noticed that solenoid failure is more frequent at the start of a new heating season. Make sure that at the end of each heating season you clean the sliding part of the solenoid with WD40, and that it is moving freely. Check it again at the start of the next heating season, and coat the side slides of the solenoid with heavy axle grease, Grease it again a few times during the season. Not only does the grease help protect the solenoid, it will also dampen any annoying buzzing vibrations when the damper is open.
It’s also very important to use a putty knife frequently to scrape the damper door and opening free of ash and creosote. A dirty, sticking damper will also stress the solenoid. Keep an eye on the linkage parts too. A broken return spring in the middle of winter will ruin your day.
SECTION 5 – SPECIFICATIONS
EZ-Classic
Approximate Heating Capacity 5,000 sq. ft.
Water Capacity 125 gallons
All Ports 1″ NPT
Door Size 24″ x 24″
Firebox Diameter 37″ Round
Firebox Length 47″
Chimney Size 8″ Schedule 40
Approximate Weight 1,450 lbs.
The EZ-Classic model firebox size is 37” x 47” with a door size of 24” x 24” and the stove weighs around 1,450 pounds. The EZ-CLASSIC is a good size for the average house and small garage. It holds 125 gallons of water. The total amount of water in the system varies depending upon the amount of PEX pipe in the installation.
EZ-Pro
Approximate Heating Capacity 7,500 sq. ft.
Water Capacity 150 gallons
All Ports 1″ NPT
Door Size 24″ x 24″
Firebox Diameter 37″ Round
Firebox Length 59″
Chimney Size 8″ Schedule 40
Approximate Weight 1,800 lbs.
The EZ-Pro model firebox size is 37” x 59” with a door size of 24” x 24” and the stove weighs around 1,800 pounds. The EZ-Pro is a good size for a large house or an average house plus garage. It holds 150 gallons of water. The total amount of water in the system varies depending upon the amount of PEX pipe used during installation.
Note: The quality of home insulation and windows, outdoor temperature, and type of fuel used, will all affect the burn time and square footage rating.
SECTION 6 – PARTS
Please call to confirm the current pricing of parts: (231) 823-2499
DOOR GASKET
Our Part Door Rope Seal $6.90 per ft 1” standard fiberglass firedoor rope gasket. Glue in place with high temperature silicone adhesive.
You can also order a door gasket kit from Dodds Brothers Supply Company. (417) 453-6751. They are currently selling that kit for $17.85 plus delivery. That is actually cheaper than what we buy it for wholesale.
SOLENOID
Our Part Solenoid $52.00 Grainger Part 4×240
Manufactured by Dormeyer.
Model 2005-M-1
CAUTION! The damper door controlled by the solenoid is designed to only open about one inch. That is all the air that the fire requires. Adjusting the damper to open farther than that will stress the solenoid and cause premature failure.
SIGHT GLASS
Our Part Sight Glass $86.00 Grainger Part 1U614
Model G901-4
Manufactured by LDI INDUSTRIES
PUMPS
Small Pump $144.00. Model GPD15-5.6SFC. Manufactured by Badger.
Large Pump $288.00. Model GPD25-10SFC. Manufactured by Badger.
PUMP FLANGE
Our Part Flange Kit $57
Manufactured by Palconn
Model 150SWP600WOG
AQUASTAT CONTROLLER
(Thermocouple temperature switch)
Our Part Controller $144.00
Manufactured by Dwyer Instruments, Love Division.
Model TCS-4010
THERMOCOUPLE PROBE
Our Part Thermocouple Probe $47.00
Model TCP60089
Manufactured by Temco.
HEAT EXCHANGER
Our Part Heat Exchanger $288.00 up to 22×22
SIDEARM HEAT EXCHANGER
Our Part Sidearm with Mix Valve $288.00
PLATE EXCHANGER
Our Part 20 Plate Exchanger $230.00
MIXING VALVE
Our Part Mixing Value $173.00
INSULATED PEX PIPING
Our Part: Triple Wrap, $7.40 per foot. Five Wrap, $10.90 per foot
Outdoor Boiler Anti-Corrosion Chemical Treatment
You MUST drain your boiler once per year and add fresh water and anti-corrosion treatment. Remember, failure to do so voids the warranty. We fully recommend the following products:
Wood Boiler Treatment, 1 quart = $35.00. Treats up to 200 gallons.
Badger Insulated Pipe Company
Limited Warranty
EZ Boilers LLC Models EZ-Classic and EZ-Pro
Who is covered This limited warranty covers only the original purchaser of the product. The limited warranty is not transferable to subsequent owners or purchasers of this product.
What is covered The stove has a one (1) year workmanship warranty.
The stove has a five (5) year corrosion warranty on the water jacket.
What is not covered Lack of maintenance is the leading cause of outdoor stove failure. The two leading causes of failure are creosote corrosion, and water chemical additive neglect. Corrosion in the firebox occurs when creosote is absorbed into an undisturbed ash line. Corrosion in the water jacket occurs when the levels of sodium nitrite additive to the water are not properly maintained. Consult the “Corrosion Prevention” page on our website for guidance. Corrosion Prevention
This warranty does not cover corrosion of the firebox caused by improper maintenance.
This warranty does not cover damage to plate heat exchangers caused by poor water quality.
This warranty does not cover electrical parts.
This warranty does not cover damage caused by the user’s failure to properly operate and maintain the unit as outlined in the owner’s manual and the company website, ezboilers.com.
This warranty does not cover damage due to overheating of the stove.
What will void this warranty Any unauthorized modifications to the stove will void this warranty.
Failure to maintain proper levels of sodium nitrite in the water tank resulting in premature corrosion of the water jacket will void the warranty.
Failure to protect the firebox from rust during the off season will void the warranty: at the end of the heating season, thoroughly scrape the inside of the firebox clean and spray it down with kerosene, PB Blaster, or something else that will prevent rusting.
How to obtain services Simply contact us to discuss the problem. Call (231) 823-2499 or use the contact form on our website. If we determine that your claim is valid, we will either repair the stove, or replace it if necessary.
No other express warranty applies This warranty is the sole and exclusive warranty. No employee, agent, dealer, or other person is authorized to alter this warranty or make any other warranty on behalf of EZBoilers.
Limitation on liability EZBoilers LLC shall not be responsible for any incidental or consequential damages to persons or property. Please observe proper safety precautions at all times. Some countries, districts, or states do not allow the limitation or exclusion of relief, incidental, consequential, special, or indirect damages, or the limitation of liability to special amounts, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you.
We will not engage in the deceptive practice of offering a “Lifetime Warranty” like other manufacturers do, filled with requirements and exceptions that render it virtually useless. They simply claim that you operated or maintained the stove incorrectly, and your warranty is voided. Or they require the stove owner to pay a percentage of the repair costs, at highly inflated prices, PLUS making the customer responsible for shipping costs to AND from the factory for repairs. We prefer honesty. We don’t hide our warranty or our prices like others do. We know that the real key to a long life for a stove is to teach our customers how to properly maintain it in the first place. That is our goal and our promise to you.