EZ Boilers Installation Tips
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Stove Installation
It is very important when you first fire your stove to allow the water to come up to operating temperature (160° to 180°) before you actually start heating your home or other structure. If you start drawing heat out of the water too soon, the stove will not be able to catch up, and creosote will probably clog your chimney. Keep the water pump(s) operating, but don’t turn the indoor thermostat for the outdoor stove up until that operating temperature is reached.
Check the water level gauge EVERY time that you fill the stove. Attempting to operate the stove without sufficient water surrounding the firebox will likely result in the insulation surrounding the water jacket burning up. It is not a pretty sight. It would also void the warranty.
Chimney
It is perfectly acceptable to add an extension to the stove’s chimney pipe, or to use a cap as well. In situations where strong winds adversely affect the draft of the stove by pushing smoke backwards down into the stove, a wind directional deflection cap is a good solution. Thin black pipe will have a short lifespan however. Rapid cooling of the exhaust smoke will allow corrosive condensation to form on the inside of the extension. Therefore, a double walled insulated extension pipe is a better choice. If you locate your stove sufficiently far away from buildings, an extension will not be necessary anyway.
Stove Footprint
Position the solid concrete blocks under the legs or pour a concrete pad.
EZ-Pro
L = 60 inches
W = 44 inches
EZ-Classic
L = 48 inches
W = 44 inches
Those measurements are from the outsides of the stove’s legs. Each leg is 3″ square. The centered measurements for the EZ-Pro are 57″ x 41″, and for the EZ-Classic are 45″ x 41″.
The factory installed check valve in the water pump needs to be removed and discarded prior to the installation of the pump.
Plumbing port connections at the back of the stove.
This picture is just an example from a customer’s installation. Your particular situation may call for slightly different placement of return lines, or you may be running only one pump. The most important detail is to make sure that the pumps are pushing water DOWN into the ground towards the home.
Anode rod installation.
ONLY a magnesium anode rod may be used. Please remove any paper labels on a new anode rod before installing. We don’t want little bits of paper circulating and possibly clogging the pumps.
GFCI outlet installation.
The main power source to the stove goes to the switch first where the BLACK wire is connected to one side of the switch, then another piece of BLACK wire is run from the other side of the switch to the LINE side of the GFCI outlet. The WHITE wire from the main power source is connected to the LOAD side as well. The 2 wires that power the front electronics on the stove are then attached to the LOAD side of the GFCI at the appropriate terminals (black on black terminal, white on white terminal).
Do not wire the stove unless and until you have shut the power source off at the home’s circuit breaker box! If you are not experienced at running new electric circuits, always consult a professional.
A few tips to extend the life of your stove
Grounding Rod
A properly installed grounding rod system will protect people from electrical shock, help safeguard expensive electronic equipment, prevent electrolysis, limit neutral-to-ground voltage, and satisfy the NEC along the way.
Electrolysis of water is the decomposition of water (H2O) into oxygen (O2) and hydrogen (H2) gasses when an electric current passes through the water. Free oxygen in the water tank will promote rust formation and eventually cause catastrophic leaking and stove failure.
Use only a 4GA or larger wire with proper grounding clips. Grind paint away where the wire is attached to the stove to get a solid electrical connection. You can completely bury the top of the rod and that end of the cable if you wish as well.
Anode rod
An anode rod is commonly used on a water heater to prevent corrosion in the tank. It works for an outdoor boiler too. The easy way to install an anode rod in an Ezboilers stove is to add a tee fitting to the drain port (bottom port) on the back of the stove. The anode rod is then installed in the tee straight into the water jacket, and the drain shutoff valve is installed to the side of the tee. When you drain and flush the stove once every year, It’s a simple matter to remove the anode rod for visual inspection, and replace it when necessary.
GFI Outlet or GFI Breaker
Always use a GFI outlet or GFI breaker on the stove. This will protect the electronics, prolong the life of the stove, and protect the user from shock hazard as well. Use a 14/2 120 volt outdoor wire to supply power to the GFCI outlet. The line can be buried alongside the PEX lines from the stove to the circuit box. The outlet has a “Line” side and a “Load” side clearly marked on it. The wires from the house into the stove are attached to the “Line” side, while the wires to the aquastat and the solenoid on the front of the stove get connected to the “Load” side.
This customer did a fine job installing the switch and GFCI outlet in the stove’s electrical box.
The GFCI should be tested at least once a month.
We also recommend that you install a switch next to the GFCI. Use an ordinary light switch to easily turn power on and off to the GFCI outlet, making it easy to work safely on the stove’s electric components.
Water Treatment
Outdoor Boiler Anti-Corrosion Chemical Treatment
You MUST drain your boiler once per year and add fresh water and anti-corrosion treatment. Remember, failure to do so voids the warranty. We fully recommend the following products:
Wood Boiler Treatment, 1 quart = $50.00. Treats up to 200 gallons30
Coals and Ash
Pull the ash and coals to the front of the firebox before loading. Be sure to get right down to the firebox metal. This will improve heat transfer to the water jacket and reduce creosote build-up which could lead to creosote corrosion. Make it your daily practice to move the sides of the ash pile where it touches the firebox as well. An undisturbed ash line would allow creosote to build up in one spot, leading to corrosion. It is the number 1 cause of firebox failure. Empty old ashes periodically as needed.
Grease the Solenoid
The solenoid controls the air flow to the firebox. If it fails, there will be no control over the burn rate, and the stove won’t work. Two or three times during the heating season, grease the solenoid shaft. As with any maintenance around the electrical, disconnect the power first. Apply a fresh coating on the solenoid shaft and pivot points only. Use an automotive axle grease on the solenoid shaft to prevent rusting and to allow free movement of the solenoid. This will extend the life of the solenoid, and keep the fire burning at the proper rate.
CAUTION! The damper door controlled by the solenoid is designed to only open about one inch. That is all the air required for efficient burning. Adjusting the damper to open farther than one inch will stress the solenoid and cause premature failure.
End of Heating Season
Cover the chimney to prevent rain water from getting inside the firebox. Clean out all the ashes and optionally coat the exposed metal with a light coating of oil. This will prevent the firebox from rusting in the off season.
PEX Tubing
Very easy to work with once you know how. Here is a site with easy to follow directions and good instructional pictures.
Here are some Q & A’s from our supplier”
Q: How deep should this be buried?
A: Only 18 to 24 inches is necessary unless it will be driven over. If it will be driven over it should be buried 3 or more feet or placed within a PVC tube or culvert.
Q: What is the string for?
A: The string which is included with every roll of insulated pipe can be used to pull an electrical, thermostat, tracing wire or whatever through the corrugated tile.
Q: What is the outside diameter of the tile?
A: The 4″ tile has an outside diameter of 4.7″ and the 5″ tile has an outside diameter of 5.7″
Q: What does “Commercial Grade Corrugated Tile” mean?
A: Our corrugated tile is DOT approved for commercial applications which means that it is thicker/stronger than other tile available to the general public.
Q: How should the trench for the insulated pipe be prepared?
A: The trench should be free of any rocks or debris. If available the corrugated tile should be surrounded by sand.
Q: What is the difference between “Non Barrier” pex tubing and “Oxygen Barrier” pex tubing?
A: Non Barrier pex tubing is used for “open” systems. Systems that are non pressurized. Those being ones that water will need to be added to periodically and that also require a type of water treatment. Oxygen Barrier pex tubing has a coating applied to the exterior of the tubing to prevent oxygen from penetrating the tubing. Oxygen Barrier pex is used for “Closed” systems. Systems that are pressurized and once filled do not require additional water to be added nor do they require a water treatment product.
Q: How is this product delivered?
A: Most likely the shipment will be delivered via semi truck. We usually use FedEx Freight Priority Service for our freight shipments. For residential deliveries, the semi MUST be able to access your location easily to deliver your order. If your location is not easily accessible by semi you will need to make other arrangements (e.g. business with loading dock or meet the truck) to receive your order. FedEx Freight will contact you via phone number that must be provided (usually 1 day prior to delivery) to ensure that they can deliver to your location and that someone will be available to unload and sign for the delivery. It is always best is the order can be delivered to a commercial location.
Q: How long before the order is shipped?
A: We always ship within 24 hours from when your order is placed and quite often the same day.
Advice for the installation of insulated PEX lines varies depending on soil conditions and geographical location. Ideally, it should be buried below the frost line for your location.
However, if your area has a lot of ground water, you need to avoid letting the PEX rest in that water. It will degrade the insulation and result in excess heat loss into the ground. We recommend a minimum depth of about 24 inches, and that the PEX lines be contained within drain tile when ground water is a problem.
The insulated PEX line can be temporarily installed above ground during winter installations, and buried in the Spring when the ground thaws. Please be aware that the plastic tile cannot be exposed to sunlight for long periods of time without being damaged.